kez & hay travels 06

I made my way into Bolivia through the Lauca national Park in Chile. It's one of their treasures with over 138,000 hectares of wildlife, grasslands and impressive, dormant volcanoes. The bus crossed over the mountains turning some hair rising corners. We stopped off at small villages on the way to buy handicrafts and visit whitewashed churches before arriving in La Paz. La Paz, the world's highest capital city at 3660m above sea level. The city is plopped in the middle of a gapping canyon, thousands of buildings fill the bowl and climb the walls of the huge crater. Bolivia is South America's most indigenous country and also one of the poorest. It's exploding with vibrant cultures and people. Just wondering around the cobbled alleys and markets, I was greeted by women in traditional dress, wearing bowler hats with their hair in plaits, babies strapped to their mother's backs in brightly coloured fabrics and friendly calls of "Hola Amiga". I stayed 2 nights in the chaos capital to climatise and also do a bit of shopping before catching the bus to Copacabana.

Because Bolivia is the hemisphere's highest, most isolated and most rugged nation, the bus journeys are long, unpreditable and very rough! I bought a ticket for a bus which should have left at 10am that eventually left at 11am but only once the driver had jump started the bus! 4 hours later with no toilet stops and I arrived at the tip of Lake Titicaca. Copacabana is an enchanting town on the Lake's southern shore and made a handy stop over for a night before boarding the ferry to Isla del Sol. The Island of the Sun is the legendary Inca creation site and birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. In the distance you can also see Isla de la Luna. The island is dotted with several small villages and has a network of walking tracks across it's mountains. There is one that starts in the North and winds it's way through the island's natural beauty to the South. In the North I visited Inca ruins before making my way South to stay the night in a family run hostel. Staying the night on the island was magical, the views were amazing at sunset and sunrise (yes, I got up at 6am) I even got to see a colourful wedding celebration.  

Back to La paz and carnival time! The streets were rammed full of all generations ready for 3 whole days of celebrations. There was dancing, singing, drinking and more annoyingly for the foreigners (as we were great targets) water bombs and foam spray. We joined in the fun and had a great time throwing water bombs at the locals from the hostel bar that was on the rooftop. With a public holiday and nothing much moving in the lines of transport, I stayed for a total of 5 days, celebrating local stylee.

Sucre was my next stop after a rocky 9 hour bus journey with Kerry (if only Perkins... but no) from Ireland who I'd met in La Paz. Here we met 2 other Irish gals, Caroline and Siobhan. Together we sampled the local Karaoke bar, where, unfortunately for the regulars, there were songs in English! The town is small and has a warmer climate as it sits at 2790m, that's low compared to the rest of the country. It's rich in colonial heritage that can be seen from all the white, mediterrean buildings and the well maintained central plaza. We took the Dino Tuck Tour and went to see real Dinosaur tracks measuring 80cm in diameter. The wall that they were on was once the ground but has been rotated to a vertical position because of the Earth's movements. With the new found party group, I headed onto Potosi. We went first class by taxi, so we thought until we realised that the driver had a fetich for blind corners!

At a staggering altitude of 4070m, Potosi was renowed for it's silver deposits in the hill overlooking the town. Although the mines are still operational, there remains little silver and mainly lead and zinc is extracted today. Conditions in the mines are appalling and since they were opened in 1545 over 8 million people have died because of them. Even so we booked for a tour which proved to be very demanding and shocking but memorable. Some workers start at the age of 13, can work for up to 24 hours underground and have a live expectancy of just 10 years more once they have started working because of the gases inhaled.  We crawled through low, dirty shafts that were unventilated and down dodgey ladders to meet the miners. We chewed on coca leaves on the way as it's supposed to help with altitude sickness (They are illegal in other countries). We gave presents of coca leaves, fizzy pop and dynamite!! 3 hours underground was a scary experience at times but worth it to understand and learn about their conditions. I won't be complaining about a boring office job again!!

Another 9 hour bumpy trip and we arrived in Uyuni. The town is on the edge of the world's largest salt flat, Salar de Uyuni. The 4 of us, 2 german guys and our Bolivian guide "Patricio" headed off into the wide open space on a 900km journey over 3 days. From now on, toilet breaks would be behind whatever, if any bush you could find! Our first encounter was the hallucinogenic salt flat, an amazing 12,000 sq km blanket of blinding white salt. It used to be a huge lake until it dried up. We had lunch by the side of what can only be described as an island of Cactuses. Then it was off the smooth salt flat track and onto rough dirt into the vast desert of mountains. Just 1 hour into being rocked about and we got a flat tyre! Luckily, Patricio was an expert and soon got the spare out so there was no need to ring Dad!! That night we stayed in a small village, watched the sunset with the Llamas and had a few beers in what seemed to be the back room of a local's house. Next day we headed off at 7am and visited rock formations, spotted several flamingo species and awed at the stunning Lake Colorada that has different minerals running into it giving it a glorious red, blue, green and white colour. We spent our second night shivering in minus degrees and so we were not that reluctant to get up at 4:30am! The reason was to visit the 4950m high geyser basin, that spurts out furious hot steam. We walked caustiously through the potentially dangerous boiling mud pots and sulfur clouds. Health and Safety, what's that in Bolivia?? love it!! As the sun rose there was a chance to heat up in the comfortable 30 degree natural Thermas. Then our last afternoon was spent by the beautiful Laguna Verde before heading back, stopping off in small villages on the way to stock up on chocolate, no cadbury's mind!

Leaving behind Caroline and Siobhan, we moved onto Tupiza. I had a day of relaxing and enjoying my last days of Bolivian hospitality. With time rushing by I decided to make my way into Argentina. It was bye to Kerry and hello to a day of patience testing!! With the only bus going my way at 4am, I forced myself out of bed and was bashed about on a 2 hour journey until the border town. I then had to walk to the other side of town to find hundreds of people with the same idea as me, only I seemed to be the only backpacker. I waited PATIENTLY for 4 hours in the hustle (no queues here) just to get a stamp in my passport from the not so speedy Immigration Officer. Eventually in Agrentina and surprise, surprise I had missed the first bus onto my destination so had another 3 hour wait. Oh well enough time for a feed and water. Better late than never, on a comfy bus and on the oh so smoother roads when the tyre exploded!! Yes... another 2 hour wait, that meant I didn't arrive in Salta until midnight.... wait for it... to a huge storm so the taxis were on strike!!! So after an hour waiting in the queue with fellow travellers, we got the hostel manager to pick us up. You see it's not all fun and games!! Welcome to Argentina.....   

At last I have found time in between fiestas to update the blog.  Having an amazing time in the land of Latinos, fitting in nicely with their laid back, salsa dancing, pisco sour drinking life style!  Have been discovering this gorgeous country for nearly 5 weeks now and don't want to leave.  When I arrived I met Andres and his family (a friend of friends, from a hostel in Sydney) and they invited me to spend the weekend at their country home in a small, typical, non touristy town called San Vicente de Tagua Tagua.  Here I had a feast of home made empanadas, other Chilean dishes, their national drink, Pisco Sour and of course lots of red wine.  With a live latino band and a dance floor full of serious movers, my dancing skills were put to the test on my second night.  I tried to learn the traditional dances of Cueca (dancing with a hanky!) and Cumbia (described by them as a kind of cock and hen flirting dance) The locals were very keen on teaching me the techniques and so I didn't get off the dance floor until the early hours!  Then it was back to the chaos of Santiago for 2 days to tour the busy city that is surrounded by mountain ranges.

I then arrived in Pucon in the lake district of Chile.  The town is surrounded by clear, fresh water lakes, hot springs and has an active volcano just feet away from the centre.  There was an option of climbing the glowing red volcan but through experience of previous treks, decided this time to give it a miss.  I met Raul (a friend of Andres) who became my guide and interpreter for the few days I was there.  We spent a day at his grandfather's house in the country, where I tried a traditional drink called "Maté" it is a very strong tea that you drink through a silver straw and share with others (I think it was legal, well granny was drinking it!)  After 3 days of local fiestas, I decided to move on to the more tranquille island of Chiloe.

Chiloe is a lush patchwork of pastureland on never ending hills.  The island is well known for it's Palafitos (wooden houses on stilts) and it's World Heritage listed wooden churches.  I based myself in Castro, the capital and from there visited the minature islands of Isla Lemuy and Isla Quinchao and the towns of Dalcahue and Chonchi.  Fish was on the menu most nights as more than half of the Chilotes make a living from fishing but I also sampled their culinary speciality "Curanto" (meat, fish and potatoes, all boiled together)

I then headed back north to Puerto Varas which lies on the southern tip of Lago Llanquihue.  This friendly town had gorgeous views of Volcan Osorno and a Swiss ski resort feel about it.  On my 2nd day, I hopped onto a deadly micro (small bus with no brakes or road rules) to speed west around the lake to the town of Frutillar, German influenced. With such beautiful scenery in the distance I wanted to get up close and so I decided to make my way to Argentina through the Andes.  After a whole day of travel, crossing 3 different lakes by boat and catching 4 different buses, I made it to Bariloche. It was all worth it though for the views were spectacular and unforgettable. I stayed 3 days as the town is known for it's quality chocolate, so I was in heaven!  Then it was back to Chile to a town called Valdivia also known as the City of Rivers. Are you starting to see why this region is called the Lake District!! I spent the afternoon cruising on a boat through the rivers and hopping off to wander around small villages that look out to the Pacific Ocean. Valdivia is also home to a well liked beer called "Kuntsman" (that's the German influence for you!!) So I spent the next afternoon at the museum doing some sampling with a fellow Brit.

At the weekend I met up with Andres again and we made our way to Vina del Mar and Valparaiso to stay with his friend's parents, so yet more culture discovery. These are 2 cities right next to each other, Vina being a modern, high rise, jet set city while Valparaiso has a more poetic, artistic feel to it. Both are beach resorts and also have a big student life so plenty of party opportunities. After the weekend we left the bustling cities behind and headed to the country to do some camping by Lake Rapel and take part in the local village's dance fiesta. Then with the long weekend over we were welcomed back to Santiago with home made sushi by Andre's father. How more spoilt can I get!!

Wanting to head North I hitched a lift with Andre's parents to La Serena and stayed with them, their friends and their Margaritas for 1 night. Next evening I caught the night bus to San Pedro de Atacama. A stark change from the south, now I was in the desert at an altitude of 2440m, it was easy to relax and chill!! Beautiful brick and mud buildings with wooden doors lined the streets. I took a trip to see the Moon Valley. It is famous for it's resemblance to the surface of the Moon and with images of red, sand mountains for miles in the distance made you realise how literally you were in the middle of nowhere. Totally amazing apart from the 50 minute walk in the blistering sun. You could spot the Brits back in town by how red they were!!

And so to where I am now, a town called Iquique. Relaxing on the beach before making my way into Bolivia and guess what there is a local dance fiesta on tonight! They live, eat and sleep music here and I love it!!....

Going solo again, the town of 1770 was my first stop. I fell in love with this tranquille town as soon as I stepped off the bus.  Untouched and undeveloped the town has little changed since it was dicovered by Captain Cook in 1770, hence the name.  Backpackers are made to feel so welcome here, we were soon mingling with the locals down the local!  The phrase "No worries" originates from this town, so not having a clue about motorbikes or a licence, I set out to see the sights of the picturesque town on the back of a chopper!  After roaring around town for an afternoon with 15 other backpackers, I officially became a "Scooteroo".  The next day I tried my hand at surfing.  The waves were tame, perfect for beginners I even managed to stand up a few times but only for seconds so unfortunately no photo evidence.  Then that evening I shared a final few tinnies with new found friends in the beach front pub and said a reluctant farewell before boarding the bus bound for Airlie Beach.

 Airlie Beach, the main departure port for the Whitsunday Islands.  I spent a night here to recuperate and get ready for my first sailing adventure.  For the next 4 days and 3 nights the Solway Lass was to be my home.  The famous 127ft traditional Tallship was built in 1902, was used in both World Wars and is today the largest ship sailing the Whitsundays.  This was sailing Captain Cook style, all hands on deck when it came to putting up the sails but there was also plenty of time for sunbaking on deck and watching the crystal clear waters pass by.  With around 30 people onboard there was always a great atmosphere and loads of laughs, except for some mornings when the waves were choppy and vague memories of drinking games were surfacing!  We had lots of time for snorkelling but had to wear stinger suits at all times because at this time of year the waters are full of deadly Jellyfish.  I was lucky enough to swim with a giant turtle, he didn't seem bothered by my presence and so, for about 10 minutes we glided gracefully through the waters together.  We touched land only once during the trip to see the largest of the Whitsunday Islands and experience the most finest beach in the country and the most celebrated view of all the Whitsundays.  The 6km long Whitehaven Beach with sand as white as snow and as fine as flour was a picture perfect paradise.  That evening after dinner we had an unexpected guest, a cheeky dolphin doing flips and turns around the boat, chasing fish for her supper - now that's entertainment.  Back on dry land after a fabulous 4 days at sea, we said our goodbyes over dinner and drinks in town. 

The next morning I headed to Townsville for a day before getting a flight back to Sydney to meet up with Patricia again and to start the Christmas and New year celebrations - Last 2 weeks in OZ a blurrrrr...........

HAPPY NEW YEAR to you all, let's hope it's as good as the last!  South America here I come.........